The New York Designers Revolutionising Fashion Today | i-D

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[Applause] we here at Irving Plaza getting an entire life in the telephone collection and it’s all about freedom and now we’re wearing Black History Month so it’s all about taking charge and taking ownership you know how we’ve risen [Music] what was coming down the runway just wasn’t speaking to the people and I think the designers working with actual people became sort of a newer sensation [Music] even without fashion week this is a crazy city before you know dress crazy so when it is Fashion Week it is crazier than ever oh my goodness it’s more than the president coming to you know it creates an environment that everybody’s happy to bring some new energy some new life you know at one point it was very close our exclusive now it’s a bit more out in the open which is great it’s also very you know people got all kind of ideas you know some like for me might be like crazy in New York and across the industry you know all fashion meets attitudes diversity in casting and gender these labels have been talking about them since they started today is the casting for the Fashion Show next week and we’re just trying to find the right look the right models gonna get the job done [Music] it’s one of the only brands that has quite literal open Catholic even if you’re walking on the street and traffic is here which is quite a lot of people did you can walk in anytime when I first started presenting gypsy sports shows I wanted to make sure that we have a lot of body types represented a lot of different skin tones and abilities and genders the streets are so amazingly intersectional so I’m like why are we not reflecting that on the runway you know when big brands do it sometimes it looks kind of wack because they have like one chubby girl or like one black dude and to me that’s not diversity that’s like tokenism it’s a really fine line and I think I’m really proud about being on the right side of it I’m not hating people up or foreign to my world I’m actually working with my friends like these are all my friends I don’t know all their names but these are like my people his walk was very really good he has really nice cheekbones look at that I mean but that’s best but that’s what you call but difference part is trying to tell you honey it’s possible either get your ass on a runway the fashion industry is changing a lot for the good they are very interested in personality on the runway now I recommend that everyone always show up and be their true self because your true self take it you’re so far they mean a lot to me as a person that’s different look at this cheekbone the person and you see what they are you see who they truly are and your rear how’s this incredibly welcoming all right I think that comes from you know being an outsider it gives you a different perspective on who should be at the table we’d be remiss if we’re talking about the current fashion scene not to talk about hood by air a lot Shane did that we’re in a posted by our fashion week now and most brands here I think are in some way a little bit to him that definitely wasn’t this conversation around young designers that we’re having now I’m the only black female who graduated from the MFA persons a fashion design and society program I think structures are changing sometimes it’s hard to apply to something and seek out an artistic medium if you don’t see a lot of people like yourself within it in general I know that there’s a lot of young girls who just want to wear their natural hair and feel beautiful and we’re daring things you know what I mean from black designers and feel powerful because it’s someone just like me who made it Luis really made me feel excited everyone is so friendly and they really about come different kind of design I like work where I like mixing making things from the scraps and they really appreciate that right now here there’s no boundary I can do whatever I want was making like these little tops in my dorm room and selling them for like $60 just off like mainly snapchat at the time actually New York is like the city of the mess so if you’re like out here and you know pushing your stuff working with the people around you taking advantage of your surroundings like you’ll be good if you’re a dominant figure in fashion whether it be designer influencer or whatever it comes with being a humanitarian as well whether it’s fashion or street wear really like it’s just like young kids trying to make a message to lead our generation to a better place a lot has changed sell stuff right on the street like I would actually have you know t-shirts on a blanket like and selling them like that this is our forward 219 collection titled country it’s a take on traditional American clothing I started doing this line when I was 15 and I was like planning to be retired by 30 I was just like super ambitious and those wanted to show my work it wasn’t Fashion Week that was supporting me like when I started it was like the art world that has spaces that they actually just give you because you know who’s like fashion is expensive and to actually be part of that system is expensive there’s a monopoly on what gets seen there’s always been like kind of the support from New York and from my friends that actually did make things happen and they didn’t have to be expensive but they were memorable me actually staying true to what I actually wanted to do and not bending to be acceptable or sellable has paid off but if you do come here and you do hustle some sometimes it really does work out I think Toph more is like it’s the forefront of our community being the ZOA that I’m black and gay and he’s black and gay and an artist and living in New York and making these types of things to see someone like me out there having a voice like that we haven’t seen anything like a movement like this in such a long time I gravitated towards photography cuz I’m like I want to take photos of everything or like I need to see everything I need to document everything my life is one thing on the mood board and I feel like nightlife is just continuously contributing the kids start everything fashion really starts with the way you know people dress when they go out the brunch kids the goth kids the techno pants I got hide zone is basically having different types of people that’s around [Music] feel like in New York it’s kind of like a playground and we could be kids again [Music] today we’re at Carlotta I’m closing the show today honestly just a room full of friends all the time and it’s really honest away at Mike and Zoey orchestrate their brand I think they like want you to be comfortable whenever you’re wearing it want to make sure like that their clothes fit your personality and your body and who you are as a person an individual that’s really rare I don’t go to many castings but when I do I’m very uncomfortable because there’s mistakes feel really high and everyone has that energy and when I’m with them it’s just like we can like hang out and like joke around they’ve stuck with the same people that they have from the start and that’s something you don’t see a lot now really emotional you know like I think that everybody is sitting and end the show we also really connected it feels really personal we just saw a curse a lot of snap really probably my favorite is a long time they should keep on pushing more often garden trees it’s because it’s good to have a showpiece but it’s also good to have something where this is the studio where all the magic happens this is Maisie my intern this season I’m sort of taking a break and sort of really focusing on looking at the business and like figuring out a way that seems the most cohesive rather than you know just showing for the sake of showing it’s so easy to sort of be caught up in the hype and like you know like you’re getting attention from this person or these people and then it’s like but you need to sort of take a step back and like this is my life this is what I’m doing right now so I really want to focus and make sure it’s something that’s not just sort of like a flash in the pan of it hype kind of situation at the end of the day is a business so you still need to make sure that you’re like surviving you know I’m learning so much every day and having to like do things that I don’t know how to do or like watch 20 tutorials on YouTube about how to use Excel so it’s a never-ending sort of process I think it makes you a more well-rounded person rather than just being like someone that sits down and draws clothes all day [Music] so I’m here to take photos think it’s amazing to be a part of this right now because all my friends are in the show my friends are helping with the show a kinetic energy that’s like continuously moving if we got a chance to come to America on our own this is a cliche to say that New Yorkers work incredibly hard that they do so you just know that the people who were showing have had to face so many obstacles whoever they are I’m not sure the American identity has shifted I just think we weren’t shown it before Fashion Week might just be one of the weirdest trade shows in the world but where are the people you know getting to see this level of creation up close [Music]

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